At my house, the entrée for our Easter feast is set in stone. A behemoth honey-crusted ham fills our holiday platter. I’m lukewarm on my admiration for that cured hog leg, but it fills my ham-loving husband’s heart with joy. He loves lamb, but because it is a recurring dinner theme throughout the year, he holds his once-a-year ham in high regard. His eyes light up as he cuts it off the bone and arranges it on the serving dish. Sometimes I can hear him quietly humming a tune.
I concentrate on side dishes. Nothing drab on this menu. No gray peas or limp limas.
No matter the meaty main, these sides are winners.
Gratin Dauphinois (Scalloped Potatoes with Half-and-Half, Cheese and Garlic)
This classic French potato gratin is the perfect accompaniment to salty-sweet ham. The garlic-scented creaminess of the mixture complements the meat in a way that nothing else can.
I learned to make the dish by alternating layers of raw potato slices with cheese in a gratin dish (oval baking dish), then pouring hot milk over the layers and baking it. But now I prefer the technique used by culinary guru Jacques Pepin.
He puts unrinsed potato slices in a large saucepan or Dutch oven along with a generous amount of half-and-half and a little finely minced garlic. The mixture is brought to a boil on top of the stove. In the bubbling process, the starch on the potatoes thickens the half-and-half and makes the spuds super-creamy, with a subtle garlic edge. The whole shebang is transferred into a gratin dish and topped with grated Swiss cheese and Parmesan. Then it bakes until mahogany-colored areas form on the surface. Delicious.
If you have leftovers, top the gratin dish with aluminum foil and warm in a 350-degree oven for about 15 minutes. Serve a nice wedge alongside green salad napped with simple vinaigrette. The combination of creamy potatoes and tart salad make a lovely contrast in flavor and texture.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon butter, for greasing gratin dish
4 medium-large baking potatoes, such as russet (about 10 to 11 ounces each), peeled, cut into 1/8-inch thick slices (do not rinse slices)
1 quart half-and-half
1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons grated Gruyere cheese (or Jarlsberg or Emmenthaler)
1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese
PROCEDURE
1. Grease an 8-cup gratin dish with butter. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. In a 5-quart pot or Dutch oven, combine potato slices, half-and-half and garlic. Add a pinch of salt. Bring to boil on medium-high heat, stirring occasionally with large wooden spoon or rubber spatula, to keep slices from sticking together. Once half-and-half starts to boil, the half-and-half will start to thicken slightly. Lower heat to medium and let mixture bubble for 3 to 4 minutes, scraping bottom of bottom to prevent sticking.
3. Using a slotted spoon, transfer potato slices into prepared gratin dish. Pour half-and-half mixture on top of potatoes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Top with cheeses.
4. Bake in middle of preheated oven for 50 to 55 minutes. Allow gratin to cool 30 minutes before serving.
Green Beans with Goat Cheese and Almonds
It may seem baffling to anyone under 30, but it used to be cutting-edge cookery to take perfectly perky green beans and simmer them to smithereens. Any sign of crispness was cooked out. They had the consistency of over-ripe bananas, the gray-green color of a battleship’s bottom.
Nouvelle Cuisine, the cooking style so popular in the early ’70s, gave cooked green beans new taste, texture and appearance. Quick-cooked, al dente beans became commonplace from coast to coast. I like them cooked just enough so they’re tender, yet still a bright, fern-leaf color, with texture that is somewhere between rigid and relaxed. I know there are those who disagree, but to my palate, I’ve never gotten used to them blanched-so-briefly that they’re almost raw. If they crunch like celery, to my thinking they taste undercooked.
Team them with citrusy vinaigrette, coarsely chopped almonds and crumbled goat cheese for a tasty side dish or vegetarian main event. If serving this alongside the Gratin Dauphinois, you may opt to omit the cheese.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 pounds fresh green beans, trimmed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon grated orange zest plus 2 teaspoons orange juice
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
1/2 cup (2 to 3 ounces) chilled goat cheese, crumbled
1/4 cup coarsely chopped almonds, Marcona almonds preferred
PROCEDURE
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil on high heat. Add beans and cook until tender-crisp, about 7 to 8 minutes (cooking time will depend on size of beans and your texture preference). Drain. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
2. In large bowl, whisk together garlic, oil and orange zest. Whisk in orange juice, lemon juice, mustard and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Add beans and chives; toss. Taste and adjust seasoning. Transfer to platter. Top with crumbled cheese and nuts. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Maggiano’s Mixed Green Salad
Back in 1998, soon after Maggiano’s Little Italy Restaurant opened in Costa Mesa, I asked for the recipe for the eatery’s house salad. At the heart of the delicious mix was the crunch of prosciutto “croutons.” Manageable pieces of prosciutto are fried until they turn a deep brown color and curl up on the ends; drained and cooled, they are crumbled into small bits and tossed with bite-size pieces of romaine and iceberg lettuce, thinly sliced red onions, crumbled blue cheese and enough sweet-sour style vinaigrette dressing to barely coat the leaves. The prosciutto “croutons” can be stored at room temperature, airtight, for up to one week.
Yield: 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
Vegetable oil or canola oil, for frying
4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, torn into 2-inch pieces (don’t need to be exact size)
Dressing:
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons sugar
1/3 cup water
2 teaspoons minced, fresh garlic
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons coarse salt
2 cups extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Pinch dried oregano
Salad:
About 5 cups bite-size pieces romaine lettuce (I often use whole “baby” romaine leaves, some green, some red)
About 5 cups bite-size pieces iceberg lettuce
1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced, see cook’s notes
4 ounces crumbled blue cheese
Cook’s notes: Start by taking a little bite of sliced red onion. If it is fiery, submerge the slices in ice water for 20 minutes or so. Drain and pat dry before adding to the mix. The dressing recipe makes much more then is required for the salad. If desired, cut the ingredients in half to make a smaller amount. I make it as written because it is convenient to have it in the fridge for future salads. Be sure to give it a good stir before use.
PROCEDURE
1. In a large, deep skillet, heat 1/2-inch oil on medium-high heat. Add prosciutto and cook until it turns dark brown and curls up on the ends. Drain on paper towels. Cool and crumble into small bits.
2. Prepare dressing. In a medium mixing bowl, combine mustard, sugar, water, garlic, vinegar, and salt. Whisk until combined. Whisk in oil in a thin stream. Add pepper and oregano; whisk to combine. Taste. Adjust seasoning as needed. You may want to add a little more sugar or garlic.
3. Place lettuce, onion, cheese, and prosciutto in large bowl. Toss. Stir dressing. Add enough dressing to lightly coat the leaves; toss and serve immediately. You will have extra dressing. Store airtight in the refrigerator for future use.
Source: Maggiano’s Little Italy Restaurant, Costa Mesa
Fruit Salad Royale
A colorful fruit salad napped with an orange liqueur-spiked dressing is a luscious addition to a ham-centric meal. Diners who have lukewarm attitudes about fruit salad may find themselves asking for more. Turn it into dessert by accompanying with crisp cookies or pound cake. If you wish, garnish each serving with a sprig of fresh mint.
Yield: 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
1/4 cup orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier
3 tablespoons fresh orange juice
1 tablespoon sugar or agave syrup
1 1/2 cups peeled, sliced kiwi or pineapple chunks
2 cups hulled, quartered strawberries
2 cups green or red grapes
2 cups diced apple or sliced plums (or peaches)
1 cup tangerine segments or peeled orange segments
PROCEDURE
1. Place liqueur, juice and sugar (or agave syrup) in large ceramic or glass bowl; stir to dissolve sugar. Add fruit. Toss to coat (I toss with a rubber spatula to protect fruit from damage). Chill up to 4 hours.
Source: “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce” by Cathy Thomas (Wiley, $29.95)
Have a cooking question? Contact Cathy Thomas at cathythomascooks@gmail.com
